Why is the fashion industry obsessed with the 90s?

Why is the fashion industry obsessed with the 90s?

It is not so much that people miss oversized suits, as it is to miss the fashion industry that has not been eroded by business and the Internet and is still driven by creativity.

A short film imitating the 90s fashion show video tape brought people back to the golden age of the fashion industry.


Around the end of 1996, Josephus Thimister, who served as the creative director of Balenciaga for five years, left the brand, leaving a window of time for this once-prosperous but declining fashion house. Few people noticed that Balenciaga did not hold a fashion show for a while before the obscure Nicolas Ghesquière took over the position.


More than two decades later, Demna, the current creative director of Balenciaga, filmed a short film called "The Lost Tape", imitating a fictional fashion show that took place in the 90s, and using it as a show documentary. Form exhibited its latest autumn 22 series. He presented all the representative characters and details of the late 90s, trying to fill in the creative blank of the years when Balenciaga disappeared from the fashion horizon.


The old warehouse, the chaotic and tense backstage, the fashion reporters sitting in the front row of the show, the after-show carnival filled with champagne and tobacco, the screams and applause one after another, the details remind people of Helmut Lang, Ann Demeulemeester, Comme des Garcons's video clips of fashion shows that are enough to be a god.


The production of fashion shows at that time was far from refined today, but the fashion itself alone can stir people's nerves.

Short film of Balenciaga's fall 22 series "Lost Videotape"

Popular pop culture’s nostalgia between the 1990s and millenniums is no longer news. It happened in various fields including fashion. Even mass consumers at the end of the fashion trend spreading chain can touch this mood of the times through an underarm bag, a hair clip or a leather jacket.


Fashion critic Vanessa Friedman believes that people may feel that the 90s dominate at this moment, partly because designers are generally fascinated by the clothes they grew up in, and these clothes have formed their aesthetics. As the younger generation of designers acquire the position of creative director, they inevitably want to try to recreate and express the influence they received when they were young.


Fashion is always retro in different eras. Anti-fashion, deconstruction and plain minimalism in the 90s are indeed making a comeback today, but I believe that the current fashion industry’s obsession with the 90s does not stop there——

The coming hope and fear of the 21st century stimulate the germination of creativity at the same time. For the fashion industry, the 90s are unique. Because it's not just the witnesses who are obsessed with the 90s. Some people recall, some people yearn for, the Central Saint Martins design students who were born after 2000 are still obsessed with fashion in the 90s.
Behind the return to the 90s is the struggle of a small group of people for the entire era. The paradox is that the collective degradation of creative expression ability and the ability to process complex information in the past two decades has made people lose the ability to escape the status quo,and they have to continue to drift along in the meta-universe vision of commercial and digital collusion.


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